Cabernet Franc in BC: The Cool-Climate Red Taking Centre Stage
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
From the sun-soaked vineyards of the South Okanagan to Lillooet Dry Creek and Red Rock vineyards, winemakers are crafting Cab Francs that burst with character: think bright red fruit, floral notes, subtle spice, and silky tannins.
The final ‘International Wine Day’ article on the blog this year will be a real treat for BC wine enthusiasts. Although it is not our top variety (that would be Merlot), it is experiencing substantial growth in vineyard area and consumer preference (which do tend to go hand in hand). As a parent to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this is a variety with deep history, well-integrated into global wine culture. It’s highly versatile, and equally competent as a blending partner or going it alone. Full of fruity and savoury, herbaceous character and easy to recognize (and easy to love), we are celebrating Cabernet Franc!
This grape’s fame comes from Bordeaux blends where it provides support to soft, cozy Merlot or more aggressive Cab Sav. It’s also renowned in the Loire valley, where it produces varietal wines of structure and complexity. New World winemakers have fallen in love with Cab Franc and its many applications. It can be used for fruity, crisp rosés and gorgeous Meritage blends, but perhaps its apogee is in warm-climate, terroir-driven statement-makers that are 100% Cabernet Franc. This is where I believe British Columbia excels.
Compared to its more widely planted offspring, Cab Franc buds and ripens earlier, which makes it very useful in regions that don’t get enough heat energy over the growing season to fully ripen more demanding varietals. But even when fully ripe, it remains delicate and soft, and therefore more approachable in youth. Baked in a heat wave, Merlot might get too ripe and raisiny but Cab Franc will still exhibit grace and congeniality. The vine is also particularly cold hardy, another desirable quality for thriving in BC’s interior. As you can see, these are the makings of a superstar grape in our province.
These stellar qualities have not escaped local wine producers. As of 2014, Cab Franc has eclipsed Syrah for fourth place in terms of plantings. We now have approximately 940 acres in BC, appearing most prevalently in Oliver, Osoyoos, the Similkameen, and Lillooet. I have written previously about this grape’s candidacy as a torchbearer for the future of wine in BC. Since 2008, Cabernet Franc vineyard area has shot up a staggering 58% - more growth than any other variety and a skyward trajectory that demands attention.
In cooler areas we can get bright, lighter red wines with energy and finesse. Fresh raspberries along with flavours of sage, tobacco, and vegetal notes like bell pepper are common. From warmer regions, deeper flavours of ripe wild berries and plum can be expressed, along with dark chocolate and roasted peppers. BC also experiences cool nights, which allows the wines to retain acidity and therefore boast freshness and structure as well. Last but not least, the fine-grained, fudgy texture is to die for.
Matching wines with food is not complicated, as Cabernet Franc typically does not have tight, toothy tannins, or lack in acidity. It is more similar in mouthfeel to Merlot, and I think Cab Franc can be more interesting and appealing on the nose and palate. Its unique profile of sage/rosemary/bay leaf, peppers, peppercorns, and chilies facilitates a sweet-savoury union, and can handle foods with plenty of herbs and spice. With robust, oak-aged wines you can pair with anything from strong cheeses to pizza, burgers, mushroom pasta, lasagna, stewed lentils, roast vegetables, and all sorts of meat (lamb, italian sausage, roast pork, steak, BBQ brisket, venison back straps, etc.). These are all tried and true recommendations. For something outside the box, try with all-dressed or ketchup chips, turkey-cranberry sandwich, char siu, tabbouleh, fresh summer rolls with basil and mint, cabbage rolls, cinnamon plum cake, and so much more. Experiment yourself with complementary flavours of herbs and spices, peppers, and match the wine’s body, which should range from medium to full.
If you’re not familiar with BC Cabernet Franc, prepare to be blown away with these 10 premium samples, all generously provided by the wineries for this feature.
Winemaker’s CUT 2022 Bohemian Cabernet Franc
100% Cab Franc comes off of 2-acre Deadman Lake Vineyard in South Oliver, hand harvested, and cold soaked 1 day prior to fermentation. The free run is aged 14 months in French oak, 15% new. Soft red fruit on the attack leads to green peppercorns, garrigue, and spices. Silky tannins and acidity ripple through the medium body providing good balance and a posh feel. This one’s a keeper.
Deep Roots 2022 Cabernet Franc
From Tamaran Vineyards in Naramata, fruit is hand picked, destemmed, and cold soaked for 6 days. The wine is aged 18 months in French oak. Deep Roots has their fingerprints all over this full-bodied, poignant Cab Franc. Red liquorice and ripe strawberries, plums, and cherries flood the nose and palate, peppered with vanilla bean, paprika, and toasty oak. The structure has Naramata’s intensity, layers of grippy tannin washed by sapid acidity. Plump and ready for holiday prime rib, or set a reminder to open in a few years - it will last.
Da Silva 2021 Cabernet Franc
Sourced from the Avila Family Vineyard on the sandy Oliver west bench, fruit goes into open top fermenters. The wine is aged 20 months in French and American oak before bottling. A surprisingly agile and approachable wine despite the generous oak program. It offers black raspberries and red berry compote, potpourri, sauna, and vanilla dipped chocolate biscuit. The palate is silky and warm, finishing with tart red fruits and baking spices. The concentrated fruit should allow the wine to develop further, at least to 2030.
Narrative 2019 Cabernet Franc
Several vineyards across the Okanagan were sourced for this Cabernet Franc, native fermented and aged in concrete for 11 months. Unusual for a current release red to be bottle aged this long, though it can certainly work. The cranberry and spiced cherry have faded, while wet leaves and buttered oyster mushrooms have come to the forefront. Structurally this is still ready to play though, so this wine can be snatched up for a deal (currently on sale for 17.99) and enjoyed with white sauced fungi pizza or mac and cheese.
K Little Vintners 2022 Cabernet Franc (Bronze, National Wine Awards of Canada)
The Cabernet Franc in this release is sourced from Oliver and Osoyoos vineyards, along with 5% Merlot. Quite a savoury edge, the rustic plum, tamarind, and blackberry are joined by crunchy leaves and dried stems, clay, and cocoa powder. Hallmark BC freshness is there too on the palate with 13.5% abv. Stylistically this is a bright, approachable and easy yet unique red for coming together over burgers or ribs.
Kismet 2021 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Silver, National Wine Awards of Canada)
Off their East Bench Osoyoos estate, only 100 cases are produced of this stainless-fermented Cab Franc which rests 24 months in French oak, and bottle aged an additional 6-12 months before release. They’ve really leaned into Cab Franc spirit and showcased its richest potential. The ripe red fruits and grilled peppers stand proud, not drowned out by voluptuous cocoa, tobacco, earth, and smoke. The palate is fleshy and chewy with fine, fudgy tannins and balanced acidity, and a lengthy finale of. Primo.
French Door 2022 Cabernet Franc (Gold, Top BC Wine Awards)
Whole-berry fermented in 3-ton wooden Tonneau tanks, the wine matures for 16 months in French oak; more specifically, free run wine goes to mostly neutral barrels, while press wine goes to neutral puncheons. Selected barrels constitute the final blend. And it’s that level of sophisticated production you are paying for here ($60). All the elements are polished to a mirror finish, from the lifted bumbleberry pie, fig jam, spiced dark chocolate, and sage, to the fine acidity and glossy tannins that reflect a South Okanagan origin. Elegant and scrumptious.
Backyard Vineyards 2022 Cabernet Franc
A blend of 85% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot from sandy soils in Oliver. Free-run wine is aged in French and Hungarian oak. Primarily fruit-forward in expression and moderate in intensity, the nose and palate are greeted with plums, dark cherry, blackberries, vanilla, and spice. Tannins are fine and spicy, and the finish tapers off with stewed dark fruits. This suits the house style - casual chic.
Tinhorn Creek 2021 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Silver, National Wine Awards of Canada)
Cab Franc is a signature varietal for Tinhorn Creek and one that consistently brings home accolades. Hand harvested fruit is fermented in stainless steel, followed by 18 months maturation in French oak barrels. The ripe fruitiness of bramble and plum disguise the 14.5% alcohol, with tasteful and savoury additions of roast red pepper, cocoa, coffee, and black liquorice. Juicy and concentrated with a ripe, darker character, the acidity and tannic grip here are well suited to drinking now with roast lamb or a moroccan chickpea soup.
Fort Berens 2022 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Double Gold, Global Fine Wine Challenge; Silver, Los Angeles International Wine Competition)
Composition is 88% Cab Franc and 12% Cab Sav from Lillooet Dry Creek and Red Rock vineyards. Grapes are hand harvested and sorted, destemmed, crushed, and cold soaked for 2 days. Ferments get punch downs and pump overs every 4 hours, with 8 days post-fermentation maceration. Then it’s 15 months in French oak barriques, 61% new. What’s different from 2021 is the intensity and volume have been dialled back. What remains the same is the textural precision and weightlessness. The nose is perfumed with dusty red currants, plums, and dry leaves, with fresh acidity and soft tannins shaping a medium bodied palate.
Final Thoughts
I am optimistic that the prominence and renown of BC Cabernet Franc will continue to rise. As we rebuild our wine identity after severe trauma (from freeze damage), we need to put our best foot forward. A variety that doesn’t lose its character in excessive heat, is less vulnerable to freezing, and has the versatility to be made into a variety of styles should surely qualify as marvelous. Put this one on your shopping list. Our sumptuous, fragrant, and appetizing wines from BC are ready for the attention they deserve.
Blog post written by: Matt Tinney, Contributor, uncorkBC