Raise a Glass: Celebrating the Rich Elegance of Merlot on International Merlot Day
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
I’ve talked about many different wines on this blog, and the time has come to focus on the number 1 variety in BC.
The 2004 film Sideways depressed this wine’s sales in North America, but the effect was neither catastrophic nor long lived. It’s just too popular, easy to say, and easy to drink. A passing phase it is not - this wine will always be around. On November 7th we celebrate Merlot!
It is the most planted grape of either colour in BC, at 1,861 acres as of 2022. That’s more than 14.5% of all grapes, the largest share of any variety. Nearly three quarters of these acres are in Osoyoos and Oliver, where the warmer temperatures can produce optimum ripeness. Percentage-wise relative to other grapes, Merlot also appears predominantly on the Naramata Bench, as well as in the Similkameen valley and Lillooet.
Originating in Bordeaux, Merlot is a major component of blends especially on the right bank of the Gironde estuary and Dordogne river where it ripens reliably in clay and limestone soils. Whereas Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec require a long, warm season and can have difficulty ripening in northern climes, Merlot is not in the business of breaking hearts. It is a stalwart friend of red wine producers everywhere, exceptionally good at being mediocre.
The reason I say that is because Merlot is not well-endowed with unique character. Its wines are fruity, juicy, soft, and widely palatable. Acidity and tannins are reduced in comparison to other reds, which improve its approachability. However, this lack of character can often leave Merlot a little flat and forgettable. Inexpensive, high-volume versions certainly leave much to be desired for the discerning, but this is generally not a problem in BC.
Our Merlots are often blended in a Meritage as befits the nature of this grape. If produced as a single varietal, it can be done so in a simple, fruity, medium-bodied style with little or no oak influence. For more serious styles, it is grown to limited yields in order to concentrate fruit character, which in turn is very agreeable with oak barrel maturation. Pre-fermentation maceration (‘cold soaking’) extracts more flavour and tannin from grapes. These medium- to full-bodied wines, rich in plush fruit, are then enhanced by woody spice, vanilla, and smoke. What sets an extraordinary Merlot apart from the rest has to be pronounced intensity, notable acidity, smooth, ripe tannins, or complexity of flavours (or a combination thereof). Blessed with these attributes, the best Merlots will really surprise you, and can be worth cellaring.
Its inability to offend anyone is the reason for its huge success. The most one can dislike is insufficient concentration of fruit, or lack of structure. If you look at Merlot as a generic red wine - which I don’t think is inappropriate at all - the food pairing possibilities are broad. The moderate tannic structure is more friendly towards umami-laden dishes. Stews and braised meat or roast chicken and mushroom sauce can work, as can many tomato-based Italian meals. To align textures, try with soft, ripened cheeses, creamy blue cheese, richly sauced steak, pork terrine, duck pâté, or frijoles. When it’s appy time, try bacon-wrapped scallops!
Merlot’s versatility goes beyond food to time and place as well. It can equally provide comfort on a winter’s eve by a fire, or pause for reflection on a warm summer patio beneath unveiled skies. It may be your choice on a weekday after work with takeout, or to celebrate a special occasion.
Merlot in BC is really shining today. With a sea of choice, the tricky part is finding the style that resonates with you. Whether you want soft and friendly or more structured and powerful, there are memorable and unique examples floating around.
Here are 9 to look for; samples were provided by the producers for this feature.
Tightrope 2022 Merlot
Sourced from different vineyards on the Naramata Bench, this Merlot is cold soaked prior to fermentation in stainless steel. The wine is aged 12 months in 50% new French oak - only 199 cases were made, and this wine sells for $32. The oak plays more confidently here, firmly hugging the black plum, red cherry, and lifted blackberry aromas with clove, allspice, and sandalwood. A little more serious structurally as well, with grippy tannins that are drawn through a fresh and poised finish. Very good now, and built to age.
Pipe’ Dreams 2020 Merlot
Lighter in colour but not in fruit character. Very red fruit-forward with bright cherries, plums, cranberry, and gentle background spice. A soft, creamy note reminiscent of porcini soup brings a savoury dimension, somewhat awkwardly. Passing for Pinot, the tannins are mild and alcohol sits at 12.7% - meaning a stylistically lean, light, and approachable BC Merlot for $29.99.
Deep Roots 2022 Merlot (Bronze, All Canadian Wine Championships)
All estate fruit goes through 6 days of cold soak, and post fermentation the wine is aged 18 months in old and new French oak. 456 cases produced, $26/bottle. Depth, concentration, impact - this wine has it all. Dark cherry, prune, and sour fruits tangle with cedar, spice, and mint. Dates and dried figs speak of a more robust and developed style that feels simultaneously rich and fresh. Elevated acidity and silky, spicy tannins support a swell through the mid palate, which gradually de crescendos into a graceful, brambly finish. Incredible value.
Stags Hollow 2022 Renaissance Merlot (30th Anniversary Art Series)
With vines now 30 years old, and winemaker Keira LeFranc hitting her stride, this premium Merlot ($45) from their estate vineyards in Okanagan Falls is a statement-maker. Fruit (94.9% Merlot, 5% Cab Sav, 0.1% Cab Franc) is cold soaked 4 days, with half crushed and half left whole berry. Punched down 3x daily, and finished with 18 months in French oak (40% new), bottled unfined and unfiltered. Dark cherry, red plum and blackberry are not heavy but lifted and bright, accented by cloves and toasty oak. Acidity, velvety tannins, and 13.5% abv are right on the money. Excellent concentration and length.
Robin Ridge 2021 Falcon
This Similkameen Merlot undergoes hand punch downs during fermentation, and is aged 24 months in French and American oak. Pouring deep crimson red, this is a fuller, generous style with thick blackberry cobbler, mint, and cocoa aromas. An earthy character provides weight and complexity and balances the lush, ripe fruit. The palate trumpets loudly with boisterous acidity and toothy tannins. There is immense aging potential, but if drinking now, decanting is recommended, as is chewing on it together with brisket or beef tenderloin. Another great value at $29.99.
Over the Fence 2021 Merlot
Destemmed fruit from Osoyoos is fermented in a 3-ton wooden vat, aged 16 months in French oak. Ripe black fruit and Saskatoon berry preserve integrate with spices, cedar, cocoa, vanilla, and butter cream. The smoke that ruined many 2021 wines is present, but scarcely and inoffensively. Which is good, because it would be a shame to detract from such refined acidity and smooth tannins, or an impressive finish - all of which this wine has, for $36. Alcohol is high (15%) but suits the style - rich, dark and handsome. Even the sloped bottle shape agrees.
French Door 2021 Merlot
The Merlot comes off two blocks of old vines from their Black Sage Bench estate. Fermentation takes place in large wooden vats, followed by a period of post-fermentation maceration. Free run wine goes into light toast barrels for 16 months aging. Warm, dense, and layered with plum cake, dark fruit, baking spices, sweet tobacco, and a breath of smoke. Acidity and ripe, fudgy tannins will carry this into the 2030’s. All the flavour components are nuanced and integrated, and construct a long, beautifully ripe South Okanagan Merlot, for a premium price ($78).
Bartier Bros. 2022 Merlot
A higher production wine (1264 cases, $25.99), this comes off their Cerqueira vineyard on the Black Sage Terrace. 15 months in neutral oak soften it in just the right way. Bright and cheery on the nose with fresh plums, cherries, goji berries, and just subtle dustings of cloves and cocoa. The fresh style stands out from other wines in this region, showing similar acid and tannin but a lighter feel and red-shifted fruit character. Winemaker Michael Bartier gives a fine demonstration of balance, and quality at scale.
Country Vines 2020 Merlot
Grown in Oliver and made in Richmond, this Merlot is a youthful ruby red with medium intensity cherries, plums, and blackberries. Oak aging lends tasteful accompaniments of pastry, incense, and baking spices, while a vein of wet stone ripples under the surface. The acidity is nice so the growers knew what they were doing, and the tannins are still grippy. A solid Merlot with a BC fingerprint, and excellent value at $23.99.
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
While plain and boring Merlot does exist, we are lucky that many producers in BC favour more interesting styles. The warm Okanagan growing season with cool nights and well-draining soils also gives us great fruit to work with. With a range of styles from medium-bodied and fresh to full-bodied and dense, this grape has mass appeal and faces no imminent threat of being overthrown from top spot in BC. Merlot may not be renowned for enviable complexity, nor considered extravagant. Yet it is almost always enjoyable and often impressive, and therefore deserves its own celebratory occasion, in all its plummy popularity.
Blog post written by: Matt Tinney, Contributor, uncorkBC. Be sure to subscribe to MT Wine Substack here.