Celebrating Malbec Day: Discovering British Columbia’s Bold and Beautiful Malbec
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
Residing no longer in French obscurity, there’s no denying that this once fourth-fiddle Bordeaux variety has found its adoptive home in the vinous crucible of Argentina. Historically considered primarily a blending partner, we now see it flourishing as a single-varietal, naked and unashamed. Its inky purple hue, medium tannin, dark fruit character, and congeniality with the spice of oak make it an easy favourite for red wine lovers, and approachable for the coy consumer.
Today we celebrate Malbec!
Vinified on its own, it can sometimes lack the complexity, finesse, and lengthy finish of great Cabs and Merlots, but in deft hands and ideal conditions Malbec can occasionally shake off its rustic robes and deliver something outstanding. Thick-skinned and packing bold flavours, the Malbec grape is a mid-season ripener but still needs lots of heat and sun to fully develop. It’s also more susceptible to frost and mildew, so careful management is required and drier conditions are preferred.
Once again, BC has the recipe for success! 150 acres of Malbec are planted in BC, accounting for just over 1% of total grapes. The South Okanagan and Similkameen valley are well suited for Malbec due to their ability to reliably ripen this variety. Because of its unique geography, the Naramata bench, despite being at the northern limit for many red wine grapes, can also produce excellent Malbec. In his category overview for ‘Other Single Red Varieties’ at the 2023 National Wine Awards, Master of Wine Geoffrey Moss wrote, “...Okanagan malbec is so compelling: enticing aromatics, expressive dark fruit, and a distinctive, savoury freshness. At this stage, Malbec has rightfully earned its own seat at the table.”
Malbec typically pairs well with lean and well-seasoned red meat, lamb, and game. I would recommend steak au poivre, bison burgers, or spiced turkish lamb with mint. Other great options would be Southern BBQ or blackened salmon. Outside of meat, try with funky, rich cheeses, or roasted and hearty vegetable and mushroom dishes. More adventurous gourmands may be rewarded by incorporating dark chocolate or cocoa into the pairing, such as a mexican mole or not-too-sweet tiramisu. For these, choose a Malbec with longer oak aging.
Below I am featuring three 100% Malbec wines from our beloved local producers, who kindly provided the wines for this article. Together these wines present a dichotomy of styles, each having appeal in different settings. On one side more powerful and structured, richer in depth and built for aging. The other is fun and fruity, meant for everyday enjoyment. Because of how little Malbec is grown here, production is usually small and therefore quantities are very limited. There are others out there, so I encourage you to please go forth and discover, and enjoy Malbec year-round!
Featured wines
Da Silva Vineyards 2021 Malbec
Grown on the Cabana Estate Vineyard on the Osoyoos South East Bench, this sun-soaked Malbec is fermented in ½ ton open top fermenters and aged 20 months in 50% French and 50% American oak - the standard Da Silva barrel program for many of their reds. This is the deep, serious Malbec to pull out with bife de chorizo (striploin) or juicy brisket. Rich dark berries, potpourri, and earthy bramble aromas float amongst savoury elements of tobacco leaf, cedar, and cocoa. The palate stands tall on firm tannins that will provide sophisticated texture as this wine continues to mature. A very well executed Malbec with a South Okanagan signature.
Joie Farm Winery 2024 Malbec
Joie Farm’s white label series showcases small-batch, experimental wines. In 2024 many producers had to collaborate with grape growers outside BC while local vines recovered from freeze damage. This Malbec is sourced from Washington’s Wahluke Slope, fermented in stainless steel and aged 14 months in 15% new French oak. At 13.7% abv, the style is youthful and fresh. Flamboyantly fruity and spiced, this wine highlights fleshy stewed plums and bumbleberry pie with subtle florals and red liquorice. The palate is playful and juicy, filled out by lots of soft fruit and a dash of cinnamon. Tannins are very fine and approachable, well suited to lamb burgers or a simple salami and cheese picnic. Even better, crack this at Joie Farm’s very popular hot dog lounge, opening May 1st.
Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery 2024 Malbec
Owing to near total crop loss in BC’s interior in 2024, this Malbec is sourced from Washington State and crafted in BC. The style certainly showcases power and depth. Fruit intensity nearly reaches Mendoza territory, thick with black fruits, dried cherries, plums stewed in spices, and enhanced by cedar, chocolate, and vanilla aromas. Freshness runs right through, and fudgy, expressive tannins keep you chewing through the long finish of concentrated ripe berries. A deft balance is displayed between a full, dense body, maximum ripeness, and structural delicacy. Mt. Boucherie are masters of Malbec.
Final Thoughts
It is still not widely known that Malbec can be so expressive here in BC. It’s one of those ‘if you know, you know’ emerging wines with a small but ardent fan club. I really don’t think there’s a more exciting red in our province right now.
Malbec’s story from virtual anonymity to international acclaim is cause alone for celebration. Its success in BC is a fortunate and deliberate result of terroir intersecting with inspired, forward-thinking, and dedicated winemaking. Despite playing a minor role in the BC wine scene, there are clearly ample treasures scattered among our warm valleys, worthy of praise on Malbec World Day and every other.
Blog post written by: Matt Tinney, Contributor, uncorkBC