Crisp, Expressive & Distinctly BC: Chenin Blanc in Focus
A most versatile grape indeed is celebrated today. With a history going back over 1000 years in the Loire Valley, its naturally high acidity and relatively neutral profile make it laudable for dry, age-worthy table wines, sparkling wines, and sweet botrytised dessert wines. Let’s give it up for Chenin Blanc!
One of the many ‘other’ grapes that make up only a tiny fraction of our total production, Chenin Blanc is a rarity in British Columbia. A mere 36 acres can be found in the province, a faint echo of the variety’s strongholds in South Africa and the Loire Valley, where it constitutes respectively about 18% and 15% of total grape plantings.
Chenin Blanc buds relatively early, making it susceptible to spring frosts, and can fail to fully ripen in the coolest vintages. Fortunately, suitable conditions do exist in BC for Chenin Blanc to thrive. With the Okanagan’s dry continental climate, noble rot does not make a reliable appearance, and therefore dry wines are to be expected.
Apart from high acidity, this variety shares another quality with its genetic sibling, Sauvignon Blanc - vine vigor. Growers need to prune and tame this wild thing, in order to keep yields down and encourage depth of character. Older vines (a few decades or more) are prized for this reason, as they naturally become less productive. Some 58-year old Chenin vines (the oldest in North America) can actually be found on our very own Golden Mile Bench! Formerly part of the Road 13 portfolio, these grapes now go to Cedar Creek for their sparkling wine.
Two Okanagan producers have decided to invest in this ancient variety, planting some new vines last year. Michael Bartier, Winemaker and General Manager at Bartier Bros, talks about why he chose Chenin Blanc.
“I love Chenin Blanc, I used to work with the variety at Road 13, so I’m familiar with it.” But there’s a practical reason as well. “It’s cold hardy.” Their Syrah did not survive the deep freeze of 2024, so they pulled the vines and put in just over an acre of self-rooted Chenin in spring of 2025. “The risk there of course is phylloxera, which does exist in our valley. But we’ve got really sandy soils here, and phylloxera doesn’t like that.”
Self-rooting the vines means the plants can quickly re-establish themselves should we experience another severe cold snap. Michael is optimistic for a modest inaugural crop in 2027, and while he remains open to what nature provides, the plan is to make a dry, single-varietal wine.
Just on the other side of Oliver, River Stone Estate Winery also put in 1 acre of Chenin Blanc last year, replacing some Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris blocks which succumbed to severe cold damage. Owner and Winemaker Ted Kane has always wanted to work with Chenin, and found the opportunity to do so in two ways: planting new vines as part of vineyard recovery, and partnering with Washington growers to source grapes for the 2024 and 2025 vintages.
So what does BC Chenin Blanc taste like? You can expect a crisp, clean, refreshing expression with aromas and flavours of citrus, apples, green plums, some delicate white florals like chamomile, and a waxy, woolly element lovers of this varietal will recognize. My food pairing recommendations would be shellfish, onion tart with balsamic reduction, ceviche, and goats cheese. Here are a few select examples of BC Chenin Blanc.
Featured Wines
Foolish Wine ‘Paparazzi’ 2024 Chenin Blanc
This 2024 release is made from Washington fruit due to the local crop loss from freeze damage. The style is delicate and easy, with more under the hood than meets the eye. Mingling among yellow apple and orange peel aromas are elements of blossoms, caramel, pine nuts, dried grass, and dried apricot. Chenin’s depth is appreciated here, showcased alongside the varietal’s classic elevated acidity which is round and soft in this case, but sufficient to carry citrus and stone fruit energy to a refreshing and fun finish. The smooth, nutty creaminess could continue to develop in interesting ways, but it’s best enjoyed now with creamy or pesto pasta.
River Stone Estate Winery 2025 Good Neighbours Chenin Blanc
Sourcing once again from Washington for 2025, this time the Chenin Blanc comes from the Ancient Lakes region. Grown at a dry and higher elevation site, ripeness is pushed while maintaining acidity. There’s an abundance of juicy orchard fruit, pineapple, and melon on the nose, complemented by lemon meringue and an orchard blossom perfume. The purity and freshness of the fruit flavours on the palate are washed in acidity that crescendos through a long, dry finish. Surely one of River Stone’s most beautiful whites. Drink this one fresh and young, without delay.
Narrative Wines 2019 Chenin Blanc
The Narrative label, produced by Okanagan Crush Pad, takes a unique look at wines from across the Okanagan, which are available only at retail locations. This 2019 Chenin Blanc, now a rare find in 2026, comes off the Naramata Bench, and is whole-cluster pressed with native fermentation in concrete eggs. It undergoes some malolactic conversion while resting 10 months on lees. An intense herbal vein and crushed rock character are embossed throughout this wine, which offers supplementary aromas of lemon zest, grapefruit, popcorn, jasmine, and crusty croissant. A touch of crème brûlée on the nose is reflected on the bone dry yet full-flavoured palate, presenting a pleasant creaminess amidst precise and edgy citrus zing. A different facet of Chenin is revealed with every sip, finishing on fresh squeezed lemon and gala apple. No danger of declining any time soon - drink or cellar for longer, if you can find it.
Final thoughts
These three wines represent a snapshot of the range to expect from Chenin Blanc. From serious crunch to lusciously ripe, even more styles await your keen curiosity. The future of Chenin Blanc in BC looks very optimistic - the fact that two very experienced BC winemakers are adding Chenin Blanc to their portfolio because of their love for the variety says a lot about how special this grape is. We are so fortunate to enjoy an incredible diversity of wines of all styles in British Columbia, and celebrating a locally uncommon varietal like Chenin Blanc is a great reminder of that. Keep exploring!
Blog post written by: Matt Tinney, Contributor, uncorkBC