National White Wine Day
Photo credit: Wines of BC
August 4th is dedicated to the appreciation of white wines around the world. To celebrate, we’re exploring a particular subcategory where the wines are all about fun, approachability, and affordability. Let’s look at BC’s white blends priced at $25 and under!
I’ve long thought that BC excels in this category. It’s not fancy, and doesn’t appeal to serious collectors or big international publishers. But this is where so many wine consumers live - reaching for a simple bottle of delicious wine that’s easy to understand and reasonably priced.
Many white wine varieties have been covered on this blog, and more recently affordable sparkling wines have been explored. The blend is special for many reasons, both for consumers and producers.
It’s often a workhorse that sells itself.
Before any bottles even get opened, a consumer has made a choice to purchase. That choice is heavily influenced by price, and a simple white blend is almost always the most affordable option.
What’s in a name?
Giving the wine a unique name allows the winery to extend their branding and tap into marketing psychology. The name could tie into the winemaking philosophy, history of the estate, or evoke an association to a desired feeling or experience. Using a creative name also means you don’t have to think about grape names, so it doesn’t require any wine knowledge - that’s approachable and accessible.
Brand familiarity
This style of wine can also be a gateway into the rest of a producer’s portfolio, as curious wine drinkers look to try more from a label they like and trust. If they put thought and effort into a deliciously crafted affordable white blend, surely their more premium wines are worth a try, right?
Almost always, these wines are made with straightforward stainless steel fermentation, emphasizing fruitiness and freshness. A short time on lees may bring a softer, creamier profile, and won’t add much in the way of cost. Barrel aging takes more time, more money, and defeats the purpose of this style.
These wines are not half cocked mashups of vineyard leftovers. They’re more like the work of a skilled DJ combining specific elements into a beat-dropping, dopamine-hitting banger. While most are crafted by fermenting the different varietals separately and blending according to a desired outcome, the old world approach of ‘field blending’ is coming back into style. Here all the grapes are thrown into the tank together to co-ferment, resulting in perhaps less distinct character of the individual varietals, but rather more integration of aromas and flavours. You be the judge. If only people could get along as well as grapes.
The producer’s choice of bottle shape is an outward indicator of the range of creativity going on inside. Whereas some wines are conventionally associated with a certain bottle shape (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah are often found in Burgundy bottles, Riesling in fluted bottles, and many reds in standard high-shouldered glass), you will see all three and more in the white blend category, including in clear, green, and brown glass.
With many white varieties growing in BC, there’s a lot to play with to create an easy-drinking blend. Consider aromas and flavours first. More neutral (not boring!) and abundant grapes like Pinot Gris or Chardonnay often form the base, giving soft flavours of citrus, apple, and a little stone fruit like yellow plums or peaches. For some aromatic highlights, a winemaker may add Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, or Riesling. The more of these in the blend, the more you’ll get floral notes and tropical fruit.
Body and mouthfeel are important as well, and are greatly affected by the choice of blended varieties. Viognier and Gewürz are lower acid wines, and will produce blends that are perceived as smoother, softer, and slip down way too easy. Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc famously provide lots of acidity, making the wine more crisp and refreshing. The winemaker’s balance will determine the style that ends up in the bottle. Chill Hawaiian folk, moody indie, or party-time Euro techno?
Just because this style of wine is about easy enjoyment for all, doesn’t mean they aren’t deserving of critical acclaim. Both the National Wine Awards of Canada and the All Canadian Wine Championships have medal categories for white blends, although price does not factor into the evaluation.
If you’ve made it this far, you must be here for the reviews! Your patience is rewarded. Here they are - some of BC’s best affordable white wine blends!
D’Angelo Estate Winery 2023 Viognier - $24
Naramata estate Viognier (85%) with 15% Gewürztraminer. An explosive entry of intense honeysuckle, orange blossom, tangerine, lychee, and platters of tropical fruit opens into an off dry second act that’s persistently fruity and floral. The finale is soft and juicy, closing out an exceptional union of approachability and elegance. This nails the category.
Upper Bench 2022 Carte Blanche - $21
Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Riesling from the Naramata Bench estate come together in this white blend. Aromatics are right up front with ripe, candy fruit - handfuls of skittles and gummy bears. The palate, however, is dry and light as a feather, brightened by fresh acidity and thin, soft texture. Remarkably nimble and refreshing.
Red Bird 2024 Atelier White - $25
Composed of Muscat and two hybrids, Frontenac Gris and Frontenac Noir, from the Creston Valley. Only 75 cases were produced and by publishing time it’s probably all gone, so act fast next year. Medium lemon in colour, there is vivid lemon peel, honeysuckle, candied apple, and peach bubblegum on the nose. The palate combines these generous fruit flavours with a dry, medium-bodied structure well suited to gastronomy, and is enjoyable all on its own. Another Kootenay crushable.
Deep Roots 2022 Parentage White - $20.78 (Bronze, National Wine Awards of Canada)
Cold- and stainless-fermented Muscat, Gewürz, and Riesling (64/28/5) make up this well-priced and accomplished Naramata Bench white blend. Despite being predominantly Muscat, the grape’s typical character is mild here, with the Riesling making contributions beyond its 5%. Aromas of honeysuckle and candied orange with a drizzle of honey and apricot syrup gently soothe, but it’s the structure that makes it more interesting. Moderate acidity and a tangy, fruity finish elevate into medal-worthiness. Fun and fresh.
Country Vines 2019 Sippin’ Pretty - $17.99
Combining Richmond estate and Okanagan fruit, the blend is 50% Gewürztraminer, 35% Schönburger, and 15% Chardonnay. The nose is fragrant with orchard fruits and blossoms, and although there is a little nail salon aroma (volatile acidity), it’s not enough to detract from an overall pleasant start. It continues with a fruity and off-dry palate that is balanced and bright, accompanied by a mineral character. A good showing at a great price.
Blasted Church 2024 Hatfield’s Fuse - $22
Blasted Church’s signature white blend, now with a Washington twist. This wine goes bang alright! A supernova of succulent apple, pear, peach, plum, melon, lime wedge, grapefruit, white blossoms, and a clean steely edge. All the components are doing their part - orchard fruit from the Pinot Gris (41%), body and florals from the Viognier (20%), juicy citrus and tangy acidity from Riesling (39%). All sourced from Horse Heaven Hills for this vintage. An illustration of how we do dry, fruity white blends in BC. Versatile and hits the spot.
Da Silva Vineyards 2022 Vinho Branco - $25.99 (Bronze, National Wine Awards of Canada)
Made in Old-World style with co-fermented Pinot Gris, Viognier, Pearl of Csaba, and Chardonnay from 3 different Okanagan vineyards, cold fermented in stainless and rested 4 months on lees. An intense florality radiates from this wine, jasmine and lily petals sticky with honeydew. Flavours of candied lemon and grapefruit are enhanced by a saline lift and acidity that’s precisely enough, before a refined finish of honeyed apples and fresh lemon juice. Gorgeous inside and out.
K Little Vintners 2021 My White - $24
Kristine Little’s label under the Bottega Wine Studio produced this Okanagan blend. 80% is Gewürztraminer from rocky volcanic soils in Summerland, given overnight skin contact, with 20% being Pinot Gris from a gravel bed in Osoyoos, whole cluster pressed. Both were fermented separately in stainless steel tanks. The palest shade of straw, this wine presents aromas of orange peel, pear, and yellow plum through a delicate veil of rose petals. 4 years on, but under screw cap so flavours are still bright and fruity, and the texture is soft and inviting. Loveable.
Corlan Vineyards 2022 Sandy Island White - $20 (Gold, Wine Systems AG)
Organic, Denman Island Ortega with 8% Siegerrebe - two aromatic German whites much more common in the Fraser Valley and island vineyards than elsewhere in BC. The wine is unfiltered and no sulphites are added. Pure and voluptuous fruits reverberate throughout - papaya, pineapple, guava, dried apricot, with orchard blossoms and a stroke of musk. Dry, light, and textural on the palate, the finish tapers into apple skin and citrus. There’s a tropical breeze coming from the Gulf Islands…
Kismet 2023 Saféd - $23.99
Blending Sauvignon Blanc, Orange Muscat, and Semillon (68/20/12) from their Oliver estate, this stainless steel fermented white is a fresh, unoaked and playful take on Bordeaux whites. Somehow none of the 3 varieties dominates. A unique combination of tangerine, orange blossom, gooseberry, crabapple, and musk. It’s lively and ripe, approachably off dry, with a nice fresh feel. Indian curries with fenugreek and curry leaves are beckoned. A harmonious wine and fast friend.
Dirty Laundry 2024 Hush White - $20.99
Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, and Chardonnay from Yakima Valley, Washington go into this flirtatious favourite. A cornucopia of concentrated fruit aromas like ripe apple and pear, citrus, melon, plum, kiwi, pineapple, and a cover crop of clover all sing a song for summer. The ripe character rings out through the fruit salad finish. Off dry, steely and playful, with florality and tang - this will disappear effortlessly but could pair well with burrata or goats cheese with a honey drizzle.
Backyard Vineyards 2023 Neighbour White - $20
Starting with a base of Chardonnay, winemaker Liam Berti adds Viognier (38%) and Sauvignon Blanc (33%). But there’s more under the hood here than just a simple white blend. A portion of the Viognier and Sauv Blanc are fermented in neutral barrels (French oak and Acacia), and all of the Chardonnay is fermented in old and 2nd use barrels. With occasional lees stirring over several months, a creaminess is imparted and a higher level of sophistication is achieved - delicate spice, vanilla, and toast embellishing the lemon curd, pineapple, grapefruit, orange zest, and honeysuckle character. An elevated white blend at this price is impressive. The new labels are slick too. Enjoy this one with white fish, creamy pasta, or in the hammock on a warm evening.
Final thoughts
These wines are not meant to be aged, revered, or taken too seriously. They may not get the spotlight, but in a way they form the backbone of BC wine, and it’s for these reasons they deserve to be explored. The further afield I wander in the world of wine, I can’t imagine any amount of certifications or tasting pedigree could ever turn me away from these beautiful, approachable, affordable, BC white blends.
This Blog Post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney with MT Wine Consulting (@mtwineconsulting).