Beautiful BC sparkling wines!
For Canada Day, I wanted to celebrate a category of our beautiful BC wines that captures fireworks in the bottle - sparkling wines!
Not just any sparklers though - I want to focus on affordable, approachable, accessible fizz for every day. This is a huge market with tons of range when it comes to grape varieties and methods. It’s all about creativity - winemakers are having fun and finding a signature style that sets them apart.
First, a review of the methods.
The most commonly seen style is frizzante, which is the result of simply injecting CO2 into a still wine. Its gentle sparkle and affordability are key to this every-day style. The term itself is not commonly used on labels - frizzante is usually the default unless one of the other methods are mentioned on the bottle.
Frizzante style is a playground for experimentation and expression, and you’ll see white, rosé, and even reds in this category. Producers will use whatever they have access to, and often blend multiple varietals to combine aromas and flavours. Even packaging varies - cans, bottles, screw caps, crown caps, dark glass, clear glass… all are welcome!
The Charmat, or tank method (aka méthode cuvée close) utilizes a secondary fermentation in large steel vessels to introduce carbonation, with a little extra creaminess coming from lees contact during this stage. This method requires specialized pressure tanks so it’s less common than frizzante. They are a step up in refinement from frizzante, but still offer value relative to traditional method wines. Prosecco is the quintessential flag bearer for this style.
Coming into vogue is the Ancestral method, or pét nat style. Here the wines are simply fermented and bottled straight away to capture the natural fizz, often without filtering. Read more about this fun and sustainable style here.
Traditional method wines like Champagne that undergo a secondary fermentation in bottle are fast becoming exceptional in BC. These are discussed further here and are generally priced higher than the ‘affordable’ qualifier would allow. There are exceptions however, one of which is featured below.
The Masters of Charmat in British Columbia have to be Stoneboat Vineyards in Oliver. Their program goes back 15 years (the first in BC) and they are still one of the few Charmat method specialists in Canada. What also sets them apart is their choice of varietals used for their sparkling wines. Despite playing a very minor role in the BC wine scene, Pinot Blanc plays a major role in Stoneboat’s sparkling program. It’s certainly not the most common grape in their south Okanagan neighbourhood, but there’s a reason for that.
Stoneboat’s estate lies in a unique area of the valley which they call the Black Sage Gravel Bar. It’s a very stony boat in a sea of sand. These stones are crusted in calcium compounds, offering minerals to the soil and vines. They also absorb heat during the day and release it at night, encouraging further ripening. Renowned viticultural geologist Pedro Parra visited years ago and confirmed the extraordinary conditions at this site. So while Stoneboat’s entry level bubble has some Pinot Blanc, as you move up the hierarchy in the portfolio, the wines become more confidently focused on Pinot Blanc and therefore single-vineyard as well.
Tucked up against the mountains on the east side of the valley, cold air descends on the property at night and helps preserve acidity in the grapes which is essential to make exciting sparkling wines. This ridge to the east, as well as Mt. Kobau to the west, truncate the daily sun exposure. This, along with the little radiator rocks in the ground everywhere, are what make the Pinots so happy here.
While others have adopted the Charmat method, Stoneboat is still able to lead in this niche. With a new wine just added to their portfolio, it seems they are the ones to watch in this category. General Manager Andrew Young is certainly leading the charge with a passionate heart and proudly champions Stoneboat’s past, present, and future. Stoneboat’s sparklings are featured below, and represent quality at affordable price points. Many thanks to all the wineries who provided samples for this feature.
Featured Wines
Red Rooster Brut - $35 (Gold, National Wine Awards of Canada)
A non-vintage, traditional method sparkler blending Okanagan Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (nearly 50/50). Grapes were whole cluster pressed, and after the second fermentation in bottle the wines rested 36 months sur lie. The nose is legit with fresh squeezed lemon juice, green apple, crusty bread, dried lemon peel, and crunchy pear. Very tart and concentrated, the acid is high and the citrus finish is long and clean. Checking all the boxes, this is as affordable and approachable as Champagne gets.
Robin Ridge 2020 Viognier Amber Frizzante - $24.99
Sun-loving Similkameen Viognier is fermented on skins and bottled under pressure without fining or filtration. Orange, wild, and ‘natural’ no doubt, this is completely unique for the frizzante category. The aroma profile combines sticky apple and caramel with dried lemon and orange peel, butterscotch, and rum balls. The palate is grippy and intense with a long finish of more dried citrus and apricot. Not broadly approachable, but definitely exciting and niche.
Over The Fence 2024 To The Moon - $33.99
A small production (115 cases) of Gewürztraminer and Viognier from the Osoyoos estate, right next to the border. Whole-berry pressed with a short stint on lees before bottling with CO2, the intensity is bright and the nose is crispy - green plum, apple, honeysuckle, citrus peel, pear, star fruit, and kiwi. The palate is off dry with good acidity, and the ripe fruit sustains through a tart, slightly bitter finish. Vivid and fun.
River Stone 2023 Sparkling Cabernet Franc Rosé - $27.90
Estate Cabernet Franc that survived the 2022/23 winter was cold soaked before pressing and cool fermenting in steel tanks. Following 3 months resting on fine lees, the wine was carbonated and bottled. River Stone certainly goes all-in on rosé, and their sparkling versions are no exception. The colour is medium pink, in line with aromas of cherry, cranberry, lemon, red apple, plum, and plenty of rhubarb. It’s off dry with a long, fruity finish and a slightly earthy slant, with a smoky element that could be yay or nay depending on your taste. Fire up the grill.
Winemakers CUT 2024 Sparkling Grüner Veltliner - $28 | Yakima Valley, Washington
This is a charmat method sparkler with the first fermentation in neutral oak, and the second in steel tank. It’s a pale lemon-green with vigorous bubbles, delighting with apple, pear, lemon zest, kiwi, melon, white blossoms, and a touch of gravel. Lighter bodied and refreshing, this is a gregarious style comparable to Prosecco. Fun, fresh, and so easy.
Joie Farm 2023 Tiny Bubbles - $25.13
Vineyards in Summerland, Oliver, and Naramata are behind this fizzy blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Viognier, and 10% Riesling, which translates to 100% aromatics. Breezy and tropical, bursting with melon, apple, green mango, peach, grapefruit and orchard blossoms. It’s dry and energetic, full of ripe fruit, and brings you along for smooth sailing. It’s a calypso birthday party, and you’re invited!
Priest Creek 2024 Solera - $30
A unique new frizzante red wine from this Kelowna estate winery, made with 100% BC Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Marechal Foch. Pouring a deep ruby red, it smells like your favourite fruity red - red cherry, ripe blackberry, dark plum, potpourri, and a trail of smoke. On the palate it’s dry and medium bodied with a light snap of tannins, while the effervescence freshens it all up and facilitates a long finish of red fruits kissed by smoke. Chill and open anywhere near pulled pork, BBQ wings, or brisket.
Narrative 2023 XC Sparkling - $27.99
Naramata-grown Auxerrois and Chardonnay was fermented at Summerland’s Okanagan Crush Pad in concrete, stainless, and large barrels, then refermented in Charmat tank for 90 (XC) days. This screw-capped sparkler blushes pale lipstick pink in the glass and shines with aromas of strawberry, cherry, cranberry, apple, and citrus. Plush and creamy with soft effervescence yet streaked with fresh acidity, and finishes with a tart bite of black plum. Fruity, simple, splendid.
Domaine Artema 2023 Sparkling - $34.90
This Black Sage Bench sparkler combines tank-fermented Pinot Blanc with barrel-fermented Pinot Gris, and a touch of Gamay juice for additional fruity body (but not colour). Aromas of citrus, apple strudel, and dried lemon peel are subtle. The palate is mostly tart lemon and green apple, complemented by quiet and under ripe peach. A thin veil of creamy texture pretties up an otherwise austere structure - pairings like pasta vongole or ceviche would do well, but to double down on approachability try fish and chips sprinkled with malt vinegar. And invite me.
Mayhem 2024 Sparkling White - $7.36/can (250ml) | Columbia Valley, Washington
This year’s super-accessible sparkling from Mayhem is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay from Washington. In the glass, it’s fresh and vibrant with lemon, apple, green plum, grapefruit, and melon. Frothy and pleasantly off dry at 10 g/L RS makes it go down easy, perfect for sipping outside and staying cool. It’s ripe, balanced, and on the money for this category.
Stoneboat Grand Piano Brut III - $35.99
Stoneboat’s top tier sparkling wine, made with 100% old vine Pinot Blanc and aged in neutral oak (33%) for 7 months. Atypically for a Charmat sparkler, this wine offers enhanced pâtisserie personality similar to traditional method. With ripe apple and pear, lemon juice, croissant, and dried citrus peel on the bright, lifted nose and palate, you get the best of both worlds. The soft, fruity, approachable nature of Prosecco with elegant Champagne flair. Nailed it.
Stoneboat Bubble Boat XIV - $19.99 (Silver, West Coast Wine Competition)
Blending their hallmark Pinot Blanc (12%) with aromatic German varietals (55% Riesling, 33% Schonburger), this is Stoneboat’s entry level sparkling wine. The mousse is fine and creamy owing to the Charmat method, and the nose is evidently Germanic with ripe peach, pear drop, apple, jasmine, and crushed rock. This ripe fruity profile is carried through to the palate, tapering to a soft, candied apple finish. Affordable and approachable - Bingo.
Stoneboat Brut Rosé I - $21.99
The debut release for this new addition to the lineup; due to 2024 conditions, this is Fraser Valley VQA (Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe, and Gamay). A pale salmon sparkler with a beautifully concentrated nose of cherry, plum, strawberry, rose petal, and juicy peach. Charmat’s creamy touch is in the velvety bubbles as well as an aroma of fresh hot pancakes (I wouldn’t be opposed to the pairing). The wine is classically snappy and dry with a finish of red currants and cherries. Well executed and sure to stick around.
Stoneboat Reserve Piano Brut XV - $26.99 (Silver, IWSC Sommelier Challenge; Silver, Las Vegas Global Wine Awards)
Mostly old-vine Pinot Blanc (93%) topped up with Riesling. Brief lees contact provides a gentle autolytic character and light creaminess. A step up in refinement of style is evident, as well as the predominant old-vine character. Waxy lemon peel, tangerine, and chamomile colour the bright and steely nose. The palate is dry and refreshing, slightly lighter in body than the Bubble Boat, sloping towards a bitter but smooth and soft finish characterizing the house style. Classy and smart.
To conclude…
‘Affordable sparkling’ is like the wine-world equivalent of ‘flight sales’ or ‘discount codes’. But to really hit the bullseye, it has to be approachable as well, and that means easy to drink and easy to understand. You can open these bottles any day of the week, for any occasion or none at all. Want to bring the bubbles to your next dinner night, camping trip, or Sunday brunch without breaking the bank? The next time you’re checking out the options at your liquor store, choose confidently and celebrate BC with fun, affordable sparkling wines!
This Blog Post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney with MT Wine Consulting (@mtwineconsulting).