A Toast to BC Syrah: Celebrating Syrah Day
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
The winemakers I heard from in preparing this article have all shared the same sentiment: there’s nothing else quite like BC Syrah. Its expressivity and its scarcity (only amplified as of late) make it truly special. After tasting through our top examples each year, I have to agree.
From the warmest sites of the Similkameen and South Okanagan, from sun-baked eastern plots to shaded western oases, over soils of sand, loam, or gravel, Syrah clearly excels here - but has this success story been prematurely cut short? That was the fear in the industry, and on the minds of consumers. It’s now becoming clear that Syrah isn’t going anywhere.
What’s unique about Syrah?
Syrah is a thick-skinned, sun-loving black grape originating in France’s Rhône Valley. Its wines are deeply pigmented and present aromas and flavours of blackberries, dark plums, violets, herbs, black pepper, and a little smoke. Acidity and tannins are not usually very intense; instead Syrah is known for a fine-grained, meaty texture. Why do people call Syrah ‘meaty?’ It’s more about feel than flavour - you get a similar sanguine, carnal satisfaction, guilt-free.
And that character does indeed pair well with meat, although vegetarian dishes can be equally successful. Grilled lamb, spice-rubbed game, BBQ pork, hearty meatless stews, aged cheese, and bittersweet chocolate mousse can all complement Syrah. Coq au vin, charcuterie, or lamb shawarma are also good places to start. Match the wine’s body by bringing together lighter, fresher styles with similar foods, and vice versa.
International examples
To this day the northern Rhône’s steep slopes and staked vines produce world renowned and expensive red wines with floral highlights, flavours of dark fruit, and a peppery finish. Here the wines are 100% Syrah, with some producers opting to co-ferment with a small fraction of perfumey Viognier. Further south in the famed regions of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, or great-value Côte-du-Rhône, Syrah is blended with numerous other varieties.
In the southern hemisphere, Australia has become the kingdom for Shiraz (the same grape with a different name). Their climate being completely different, this popular wine style is bombastic with more richness, more fruitiness, more alcohol - pretty much more everything, except maybe elegance.
What about ours?
Today, BC only has enough appetite for Syrah to put it at 5th place in red wine acreage. Its value is not in its popularity though, but its quality. Nearly three quarters of awards for Syrah in Canadian competitions are from BC. Many have made the podium internationally as well. In British Columbia, Syrah often performs as a one-grape exhibition, and confidently at that. Although there are exceptions, our wines are decidedly more Syrah than Shiraz, bringing more finesse and structure as permitted by our geography. This grape is also sometimes added to Bordeaux-style Meritage blends, and as a nod to similar blends from Tuscany using Sangiovese, ours have been nick-named ‘Super Okanagans.’ Syrah also occasionally ends up as a rosé, exhibiting a lively and refreshing side to its complexity. Add some CO2 and you’ve got yourself a sublime sparkler!
Recent history
When many vineyards were first being planted here in the 90’s, most people thought it absurd to put Syrah vines in the dirt. Luckily, Alex Nichol (Nichol Vineyards) and Richard Cleave (who established vineyards for many producers such as Phantom Creek, Burrowing Owl, and Mission Hill) disagreed. The growing degree days received in the south Okanagan are strikingly similar to the Northern Rhône. Our local climate, as it turns out, is impeccably suited to this varietal. Or at least - it was.
Along with the steady advance of climate change, which might otherwise have a positive impact on grape growing, come more frequent inclement weather events. In December of 2022 and January 2024, extreme freezing temperatures had devastating impacts on wine production in our province. The most hard hit were cold-sensitive varietals like - you guessed it - Syrah. The 2024 harvest was unlike anything we’ve experienced. Wineries and vineyard managers were forced to make difficult decisions. Replant and hope for the best, or pivot to a new direction?
Looking ahead
Is this the twilight of Syrah in BC, or does hope remain!
The news coming from Syrah producers is mostly positive. The team at Vasanti had already planned to replant Syrah based on the damage sustained in 2023, so their new vines planted in the spring of 2024 were spared the second freeze event. Planted in the same warm site on the Osoyoos East Bench, they expect to continue producing this special varietal as a core wine for their club members. Look forward to a fresh vintage of young Syrah from 2025 onwards!
Replanting was also necessary for Bartier Bros, Clos du Soleil, and Phantom Creek. Over half of the blocks on the Bartier Bros estate were replanted. They will continue to produce Syrah sourced from neighbouring vineyards. Winemaker Michael Bartier calls South Okanagan Syrah, “a rare, and delicious creature.”
The next vintage from new vines on Clos du Soleil’s Similkameen estate will be made this year! In the meantime, winemaker Michael Clarke produced a Syrah last year from purchased BC grapes, which will be released in 2027. The bottom line: no gap years!
Phantom Creek decided to replant Syrah in their Phantom Creek, Kobau, and Becker Vineyards, opting to shift towards whites and Pinot Noir in their Similkameen plot. Syrah will remain a very important part of what they do, and who they are.
La Frenz had self rooted Syrah vines planted in 1999 on their Naramata estate. In 2005, cuttings were taken to establish new self-rooted vines on the Rockyfeller Vineyard site on the Golden Mile Bench. New shoots were therefore trained up from the 22-year old trunks following the recent freeze damage, and they were able to produce a full and concentrated crop in 2025. Being started by Australians, Syrah will always have a special place at La Frenz.
Returning to the present
Current releases from the pre-2024 era are featured below. These spectacular BC Syrahs were kindly provided by the wineries. As always, they are tasted blind to mitigate any bias or expectations.
La Frenz 2022 Syrah
95% Syrah and 5% Viognier (mostly from Rockyfeller Vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench, a little from their Naramata estate) are 75% destemmed and the rest whole-cluster pressed. After 2 weeks co-fermentation, this Syrah is aged 20 months in French Oak barrels (8% new) before bottling unfined and unfiltered. The medium ruby colour hints at a fresh, bright expression. Indeed the nose presents sour dark plums and tart blackberries, pepper, dried petals, and subtle vanilla and baking spices. The core of the palate is dark but sour fruits, with generous acidic structure and some tannic grip. This levity superimposed over darkness is the theme that carries through to a balanced and graceful finish. Tension in the deep.
Vasanti 2022 Syrah
Exclusive to wine club members, this small-lot Syrah in Vasanti’s Radiance Collection is from Suncrest Vineyard on the east side of Osoyoos, matured 24 months in 100% new American oak. The warmth of the site is captured in this intense expression of South Okanagan Syrah. Wave after wave and layer upon layer of mulberry, ripe dark cherry, stewed plum and pepper compose the nose and palate. Notes of mint, cedar, cocoa, and vanilla add dimension. Soft acidity and tannins create a smooth and approachable style on the palate, echoing with ripe dark fruit and some smoked olive on a lengthy finish. Warmth and ripeness.
Clos du Soleil Winemaker’s Series 2022 Syrah
*Bronze, National Wine Awards of Canada
This is 98% Syrah with 2% Viognier, and all Similkameen, being sourced from vineyards in Keremeos and Cawston. All fruit is destemmed and fermented in concrete vessels, followed by traditional basket press, and aged 16 months in French oak (75% neutral, 25% second-fill). The power of Similkameen wind and sun are speaking here. Aromas of baked plum, boysenberry, dried fig, and pepper sizzle in a cedar sauna. Elevated acidity and abundant silky tannins provide great texture to a rich, ripe fullness of body, and also improve this wine’s ageability.
Phantom Creek 2020 Phantom Creek Vineyard Syrah
A club member exclusive, this single-vineyard Syrah is from the Phantom Creek estate on the Black Sage Bench just north of Osoyoos. It was bottled in September 2022 after spending 22 months in French oak, 67% new barrels. At 15.9% abv you can expect a big showing. Deeply pigmented, the character here is dark, roasted, and meaty. The nose predominantly expresses the sweet, sticky dark fruits of the site, which receives full sun through the hottest part of the day. The presence of dried fruit (prune, date) is indicative of slightly more age. More complexity comes from the aromas and flavours of potpourri, toasty oak, and sweet chocolate. There’s no doubt about a full body and long, intense finish, yet there is a fine structure that retains elegance and lift. Poised power.
Phantom Creek 2021 Kobau Vineyard Syrah
This bottling is from 100% Syrah off the Kobau Vineyard on the Golden Mile Bench. The barrel program is 21 months in French oak, 50% new. The profile here is dark and stormy, rich in inky fruit and earthiness. On the nose this translates to ripe blackberries and plum cake, bay leaf, mocha, and dark earth. The fruit-vs-oak paradigm plays out with equal balance on the palate, allowing the Mt. Kobau acidity and supple tannins to dazzle. Subtle smoke on the finish caps off a decadent experience. Ready to drink now, or will cellar well till 2031 and beyond. Dark fruit, mountain lift.
Laughing Stock 2023 Syrah
This Naramata estate sources the fruit (95% Syrah, 5% Viognier) from vineyards in Osoyoos, co-fermenting whole berry in stainless steel. It is aged 20 months in 40% new French oak, the remainder being older barrels. The intense crimson depths explode with intense dark wild berries and flashes of geranium and violets. Aromas of cedar, incense, and rosemary provide added dimension. The velvety tannic structure is approachable now in this young Syrah, but the fruit concentration and saline freshness on the palate will also carry it well into the next decade. Showstopper.
Bartier Bros 2022 Syrah
*Silver, National Wine Awards of Canada
93% Syrah and 7% Merlot from the Bartier Bros estate’s Cerqueira Vineyard on the Black Sage Terrace are fermented in oak tank, with 15% remaining whole-cluster. The wine is then aged for 16 months in neutral oak barrels and tank. Some interesting aromatics and compelling structure are what set this wine apart. Along with the usual ripe, dark fruits are herbaceous notes of mint, sage, Thai basil, and anise, as well as toasted baking spices and cocoa. Juicy acidity and tannins, with alcohol at 13.5%, work together to strike a vibrant, expressive chord. Herbal edge, vibrant frame.
Kismet Syrah Family Select 2021
*Top 50 BC Wine Awards
*Gold, National Wine Awards of Canada
From a vineyard along Osoyoos Lake, this Syrah is fermented whole-berry in stainless steel before barreling in 70% French and 30% American oak for 18 months. The entry is dark and woodsy, illuminated only by flickers of dried blossoms, and subtle pepper which emanates given time in the glass. On the nose and palate, this Syrah is characterized by dark berries, blueberry spread, potpourri, mint chocolate, damp soil, and mushroom. Acidity is ample and there is sufficient soft tannin to warrant pairing with some grilled meat. With an oxidative lean, I would enjoy the full body and long finish relatively soon, although another 1-2 years probably won’t hurt. Earthy and contemplative.
Final Thoughts
So what role will Syrah have going forward in BC wine? The industry appears to be committed to this varietal, keeping production small to mitigate risk and also to keep this ‘delicious creature’ special. The painful truth is that the losses suffered are enough to ensure Syrah will likely remain a beloved but lesser constituent of BC’s wine output. A gifted ambassador, but never president. Whatever the role, let’s hope it’s a lifetime appointment!
Blog post written by: Matt Tinney, Contributor, uncorkBC