Best of BC Sauvignon Blanc
Photo credit: Wines of British Columbia
One of the most commonly planted varieties in the world, and a royal pedigree to its name, this grape is one of a kind. With a distinct aromatic profile, it produces pristine, fragrant, dry wines, and also revered sweet wines. Native to France and one of the parent varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, today we celebrate Sauvignon Blanc!
It’s grown in all corners of the viticultural world and is probably the only one among the top 3 whites in global production that thrives today without having its reputation tarnished in the past 60 years (overly oaked Chardonnay, and sweet but boring Riesling being the affected other two). Hardly a hater to be found, Sauvignon Blanc is usually the choice for consumers cruising for something light, dry, and snappy. Wines are fairly consistent whether from South Africa, New Zealand, or Kelowna, which certainly helps its broad appeal. Always approachable and never heavy, wines are typically described as crisp, fresh, and delicate. In cooler regions, its pungent aromas may emulate citrus, grapefruit, gooseberries, grass, and fresh green veg, even jalapeño (without the heat). Unlike any other wines, these have the capacity to deliver a salad in a glass. Warmer climates can coax from the grapes a more tropical character, with aromas and flavours likened to peach, passion fruit, guava, and mango.
Our local winemakers have different methods at their disposal for bringing out the desired characteristics in their wines. Sauvignon Blanc is a markedly vigorous vine, making more expressive wines when grown in poorer soils and with farming methods which control excessive growth. Struggle produces character. When kept shaded, the ripening grapes produce higher levels of methoxypyrazines, the compounds responsible for this varietal’s signature green aromas.
With over 400 acres planted in BC, Sauvignon Blanc is fifth in white wine acreage, or about 3.5% of total grapes. Primarily grown in the Okanagan and Similkameen, its propensity for higher acidity brings welcome freshness no matter the provenance. Sauvignon Blanc’s more elegant nature is well suited to single-varietal and stainless steel production, preserving and emphasizing the powerful aromatics.
Fermenting solely in stainless steel maintains a bright and edgy expression, facilitated by the variety’s natural acidity. Many winemakers choose to do a portion of fermentation or maturation in oak, usually neutral barrels, and/or allow a few months of lees contact to soften the edge and make a wine that’s a bit rounder, juicier, and more approachable.
Being lighter in body with bracing herbaceousness, Sauvignon Blancs pair best with dishes similar in weight and with fresh green and herbal elements. This could be salads (with or without proteins such as chicken, salmon, or prawns), olive tapenade or babaganoush, pesto pasta, herb-laden ceviche, steamed or poached fish, mussels and fries, fresh goats cheese, and mild Asian cuisine. My current favourite is grilled asparagus.
It is almost always meant to be drunk young - aging in bottle is rare and not usually recommended. Occasionally you will see examples with barrel aging, often blended with Sémillon, which provides a bit more body and texture in this Bordeaux style. Ever the diverse and exploratory tapestry of winemaking, BC has a confident grasp on multiple styles of this noble variety. Here are a few select samples from top BC producers, who provided the wines for this article.
FEATURED WINES:
Mayhem 2024 Sauvignon Blanc
Wahluke Slope AVA, Washington
Looks like we’ll be seeing a lot of Sauvignon Blanc coming out of Washington this year! The juice for this wine was pressed and shipped up to Okanagan Falls, where fermentation took place in stainless steel with 4 months resting on lees. 11% of this was in seasoned barriques, acting to slightly soften the sharp acidic edge while retaining the characteristic aromas. Gooseberry, lemongrass, lime, grapefruit, green pepper, and a bit of passionfruit are alive in this vibrant and zippy Sauvignon Blanc. Just shy of medium-bodied, the subtle texture is nice, rounding out the profile but not distracting from all the vivid fruit qualities.
Blasted Church 2024 Sauvignon Blanc
Horse Heaven Hills AVA, Washington
After transporting the cold-pressed juice into Canada, fermentation was initiated in a combination of neutral oak and stainless steel. Characteristic aromas and flavours are in abundance - gooseberry, green apple, citrus peel, honeysuckle, and passionfruit. A Sauvignon Blanc that leans into the juicier side, still dry but with mouthwatering acidity and ripe fruit flavours that feel like a big bite of tangy, tropical produce. You’ll need a napkin.
Winemaker’s CUT 2024 Sauvignon Blanc
Yakima Valley AVA, Washington
Washington grapes were crushed and given 3 hours skin contact, then fermented cool and slow in 80% stainless steel and 20% neutral barrels. Winemaker Michal Mosny has followed the theme here for his Washington wines - one of approachability and versatility. This is a soft and juicy Sauvignon Blanc with aromas of gooseberry, lemon, white flowers, grass, and lime pith. The palate is dry with ripe acidity, a texture that will have broad appeal, and a pleasant Granny Smith finish. You can drink this with just about anything.
Dirty Laundry 2024 Sauvignon Blanc
Yakima Valley AVA, Washington
Fruit was crushed and soaked 2 hours before pressing and transporting the juice up to Summerland. Cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks was accompanied by daily lees stirring. A unique and lovely expression with mild aromas of gooseberry, caper berries, mango, young thyme, hay, and hawthorn. From sip to finish, it’s the greenness and savoury elements that lead while the ripe fruit supports, all brightened with vibrant acidity. These qualities make this a punchy and enjoyable take on the varietal, especially in the context of a new wave of Washington-sourced Sauvignon Blancs being released in BC now.
Tightrope 2024 Slackline Sauvignon Blanc
Yakima Valley AVA, Washington
Only stainless steel vessels were used in the production of this made-in-Naramata Sauvignon Blanc, with 3 months resting on lees to enhance texture. The thesis of this wine is spectacularly ripe fruit. Gentle aromas of gooseberry, white blossoms, passionfruit, and green pepper declare the wine’s identity. The limey acidity on the palate is also ripe and salivating, facilitating a generously succulent Riesling-like finish. Well done.
Final Thoughts
The quality of BC Sauvignon blanc deserves to be recognized as on par with the more globally touted versions from the Loire, Bordeaux, California, Chile, and New Zealand. Washington can achieve incredible ripeness, but BC wines have the edge when it comes to vegetal and mineral complexity. We can be proud that rather than striving to emulate these famous styles, we produce wines with an identity of our own.
This Blog Post was written by our contributor: Matt Tinney with MT Wine Consulting (@mtwineconsulting).